The Rubber V Belt acts as a transmission belt

The Rubber V Belt acts as a transmission belt. Connecting the V-belt pulleys, it transmits the force from the engine to the ancillary components including the alternator, the hydraulic pump for the power steering.

The V-belt acts as a transmission belt. Connecting the V-belt pulleys, it transmits the force from the engine to the ancillary components including the alternator, the hydraulic pump for the power steering, the air conditioning compressor, the fan and the water pump.

In a combustion engine, the combustion of the air/fuel mixture drives pistons. Via connecting rods, the movement of these pistons in a straight line is converted into the rotation of the crankshaft. The V-belt uses the force from the rotation (torque) of the crankshaft and drives additional units via V-belt pulleys. As such it is responsible for the correct operation of the engine and high levels of ride comfort. A V-belt can drive one or two additional units.

V Belt Supply is responsible for ensuring that the air conditioning compressor it drives regulates the temperature inside the vehicle to a pleasant level in summer and stops the windows misting over in winter. It also ensures that the power steering assists the driver when steering. The alternator drive ensures not only that the necessary electrical energy (e.g. for sparking ignition or for the injection system) is supplied to the engine but also that electrical loads such as the heated rear window, lighting, heated seats, the navigation system and the ABS and ESP are supplied with power. The water pump powered by the drive ensures that the coolant circulates in the engine, thereby preventing the inconvenience that would be caused by breaking down due to the engine overheating.

There are two different types of engines Rubber Timing Belt

A Rubber Timing Belt controls the timing of the engine's valves. When a timing belt snaps, certain types of engines can be ruined. It is best to replace the timing belt when you have reached the number of miles your car manual recommends for a replacement, or when you see some symptoms signaling that the timing belt is going bad.

There are two different types of engines: interference and non-interference. If a timing belt snaps or slips on an interference engine, the engine will be badly damaged costing a small fortune in repairs. If a timing belt snaps on a non-interference engine, the engine will be damaged but will not cost as much in repairs as an interference engine.

Timing Belt vs. Timing Chain

Some cars, like Audi, come with a timing belt, but some, like Mercedes, come with a timing chain. A timing belt is made of rubber and is more apt to break before a timing chain. Audi recommends changing the timing belt every 80,000 miles, whereas Mercedes says the timing chain will last the life of the car unless symptoms arise. Refer to your car manual to check the recommended mileage for changing your timing belt.

Symptom 1: Excessive Exhaust

If your car fires more than a typical amount of exhaust, your timing belt could be worn out.

Symptom 2: Car is Hard to Start

If your car has high mileage and is hard to start, the timing belt could be going bad.

Symptom 3: Hot and Leaky Engines

Older rubber timing belts degrade in hot temperatures and with exposure to motor oil. If your car runs hot and has a leaky engine, the life expectancy of your timing belt is lowered. Newer timing belts are made of heat resistant materials, and thus do not have this problem.

Symptom 4: Car Shakes

A working timing belt is perfectly timed with the valves and pistons. If the V Belt China is going bad, the timing will be off, causing the car to shake.

Replace a direct-PK Belt motor

How to replace a direct-PK Belt motor?

CAUTION - MAKE SURE POWER IS TURNED OFF AT THE DISCONNECT SWITCH PRIOR TO CHANGING THE MOTOR.

    First remove the motor cover, if any.
    Remove the motor junction box cover and disconnect the motor wiring.
    Loosen the motor pulley set screw, remove the key (if applicable), and remove the wheel/propeller from the motor shaft.
    Remove the nuts, bolts, and washers securing the motor to the motor mounting plate, and remove the motor.
    Install the new motor using the four nuts, bolts, and washers. Do not tighten.
    Place the key in the motor shaft (if applicable), re-install the wheel/prop, tighten the set screw
    Align the wheel/prop and tighten the motor to the mounting plate.
    Reconnect the motor wiring, making sure the connections are made in compliance with the wiring diagram on the motor. (leave the junction box cover off at this time)
    Turn the disconnect “ON” and momentarily energize the motor to verify correct rotation. (If rotation is incorrect, turn disconnect “OFF”, adjust wiring to reverse motor rotation, and Turn “ON” to verify rotation.)
    Using motor leads in the junction box, take a correct reading with an appropriate instrument to verify that the motor is running within the nameplate amperage range and is not overloaded.
    Re-install the junction box cover.
    With fan “ON”, visually inspect that all is in proper working order.
    Replace the motor cover.
V Belt Supply - http://www.automotivedrivingbelt.com/product/automotive-v-belt/

The power that can be transmitted by a wedge Rubber Timing Belt

The power that can be transmitted by a wedge Rubber Timing Belt depends upon a number of factors, namely:

The angle of contact

The greater this is, the more torque and power can be transmitted. If both pulleys are not of the same diameter, then the smaller pulley is the one that determines the maximum torque and power that can be transmitted. Not only does the smaller pulley have a shorter length of contact, but it also has a smaller angle of contact than the larger pulley, so it will always be the first to slip. In cases where the pulleys are not the same diameter, the angle of contact will depend also upon the centre distance between the shafts. The greater the centre distance, the greater the angle of contact. For this reason, centre distances should not be below the recommended minimum value (sum of the pulley pitch diameters) unless there are special circumstances.

The wedge angle of the belt (and groove).

Because you will be selecting a standard belt you are not able to change this angle which is usually 34° or 38° depending upon the size of the belt and the size of the pulleys.

The coefficient of friction.

You have little control over this because it is determined by the belt material and the pulley material (and finish). In practice it is important to keep oil and grease off the belt and pulleys because this will reduce the friction (and could deteriorate the belt). Why would it not be a good idea to use a rough surface on the pulley to increase the coefficient of friction?

The pulley diameters.

The larger the diameters, the greater the torque and power. This is simply because for a given belt tension force, the larger the pulley, the larger the torque (torque = force x radius) and hence the greater the power for a given speed. This is why it is not a good idea to choose pulleys that are too small. On the other hand if the pulleys are too large, the belt speed increases, centrifugal tension increases and the drive takes up more space. So a reasonable compromise is needed when choosing pulley pitch diameters.

Initial belt tensions.

The higher the initial tension in the belts, the greater the torque and power that can be transmitted. At rest, when no power is being transmitted, the belt tensions are equal on both sides of the pulleys. As the pulleys rotate and transmit power, the belt tension rises in one side (tight side) and reduces in the other (slack side). However, the sum still stays the same. When the ratio of the belt tensions reaches a certain limiting value, slipping will occur. Hence the greater the initial tension in the belts, the greater the torque and power that can be transmitted before slipping occurs.

However, it is not a good idea to have too much tension because this will place high radial loads on the shaft and bearings and also will reduce the belt life considerably. For this reason, initial belt tensions should be set carefully. In their catalogue, Penner detail the practical method for pre-setting the belt tensions. This method requires a belt tension indicator (which is really just a force gauge) that measures the force at the centre of the belt required to cause a standard deflection (16 inn per m of span). There is a recommended value for this force that should be adhered to when the belt drive is initially installed.

As the belt wears, the initial tension needs to be re-set, so the designer should allow for an adjustment method. Adjustment can be provided by moving one shaft further away from the other or by means of an adjustable jockey pulley. This pulley should be located on the inside of the drive on the slack side as close as possible to the larger pulley and should have a diameter at least equal to the smaller pulley.

The size of the belt.

The larger the belt section, the greater the tension that can be carried by the belt and the greater the torque and power. In the Data Manual, four sizes of wedge belt are given, namely: SPZ, SPA, SPB, and SPC. These are listed in increasing size, with the SPZ being the smallest and the SPC being the largest.

The number of belts.

Belt drives with a single belt are the most common but belt drives are often used with 2 to 6 belts in parallel on multi-grooved pulleys. In the larger sizes up to 8 belts may be used. Clearly, the torque and power increase in direct proportion to the number of Rubber Drive Belts.

Replacing Gurina Timing Belt

It can be a difficult and time-consuming affair for you to alter a PK Belt. Depending on the application, the action about involves removing motor mounts, valve covers and locations such as the alternator and ability council pump. Additionally, affliction have to be taken to ensure that the backup belt is installed in such a way that the camshaft and crankshaft abide appropriately synchronized. Abortion to do so can aftereffect in annihilation from a ailing active engine to adverse engine damage.

The timing belt itself is an important allotment of any engine that makes use of one. With the advice of a timing belt, the camshaft and crankshaft can accord able-bodied so that the valve alternation operates in time with the pistons. The exact backup action will alter abundantly depending on the accomplish and archetypal of the car but, generally, aggregate absorbed to the foreground of the engine has to be removed or confused out of the way. This about involves removing the drive belts, accessories and associated brackets, motor mounts and the crankshaft pulley. Once all of these apparatus are removed, it becomes accessible to admission the timing cover.

The belt tensioner is a acute allotment of any engine. It can bind the engine belt and alteration ability through pulleys from the timing belt to the alternator. It is amenable for breeding the actual amounts of astriction to acquiesce the engine to run and drive its components. Belt tensioners lose their backbone and ability over time, which can advance to an engine abortion if the belts aren't replaced. You charge to apperceive whether the tensioner is beat or not.

The car array ablaze will ablaze up if the belt tensioner is failing. The array will activate to run down due to the actuality that the belt is slowing down and bottomward out of its compartment. In addition, the alternator will no best about-face fast abundant to ability the battery.

One of the capital signs that a belt tensioner needs backup is the atrocity of the belt. Listen for a fluttering" babble while active or while the car is idling. This indicates the tensioner is too loose. Other noises such as squealing or addled from the foreground of the engine beggarly the bounce central the tensioner is weakening. In this case, the belt tensioner needs to be replaced.

Lift the hood. Lift the foreground of the car with the attic jack and abutment the car with the jack stands. Abolish the passenger-side annoy and caster assembly, application the lug wrench. Abolish the close burst shield, application a 10 mm socket. Loosen the timing belt tensioner with a bend by blame it abroad from the belt while you abolish the belt.

Remove the coolant backlog catchbasin with a 10 mm socket, abrogation the hoses absorbed and move it out of the way of the top engine mount. Abolish the bolts accepting the ability council pump, application a socket, abrogation the hoses attached, and move it aside.

Place the attic jack beneath the engine oil pan and accession the jack just until it contacts the oil pan. Abolish the high passenger-side motor arise and bracket, application a socket. Accession the engine hardly with the attic jack.

You should use a 10 mm atrium to move the timing belt awning away. About-face the crankshaft clockwise with a atrium and ratchet until the timing mark on the crankshaft caster aligns with the mark on the 0 mark on the block at the 12 o'clock position. Check that the timing mark arrow on the camshaft sprocket is accumbent with the mark on the butt arch at 12 o'clock. If the mark on the camshaft sprocket does not band up, circle the crankshaft one added time and they will align.

Remove the crankshaft bolt,using a atrium and breaker bar. Abolish the pulley. Loosen the timing belt tensioner bolt, application a bend and inserting a 1/8-inch Allen bend into the tensioner. About-face it counterclockwise a quarter-turn. Insert the 1/8-inch assignment bit in the aperture in the block next to the tensioner to accumulate it in place. Abolish the timing belt.

Install the new timing belt starting on the appropriate side, abroad from the tensioner. You should accomplish abiding that the timing belt is as bound as accessible on the appropriate side, so the baggy in the belt will be on the tensioner side. Abolish the assignment bit from the belt tensioner and acquiesce it to administer astriction to the timing belt. Bind the tensioner bolt with a wrench. Insure that both timing marks are perfect, because this is an arrest engine.

Turn the crankshaft by briefly installing the crankshaft bolt and application a atrium and ratchet. About-face it clockwise two turns and re-check the V Ribbed Belt marks. Install the timing cover, crank caster and actual locations in about-face adjustment of removal.

 

Timing belts play a basic role in befitting the valves

Timing Belt Manufacturers are able bands of elastic acclimated to alike the turnings of crankshafts and camshafts in centralized agitation engines. Many timing belts accept teeth which is as aforementioned as the apparatus of a specific engine architecture at close surface. Timing belts play a basic role in befitting the valves and pistons alive in a absolute order. Anniversary valve and agent aggregate have to advance down on the alone cams on a camshaft at just the appropriate moment.

You can ask your artisan for a advice to alter the timing belt in your car. Timing belts accumulate the altered locations of a car’s engine in accompany with anniversary added and on boilerplate should be replaced every 60,000 miles. Because of the absence of a timing belt change, it can be simple to discount this basic service.

Disconnect the abrogating array cable application a bend or socket. Lay it out of the way but do not acquiesce it to blow metal. You should alleviate the axis bolt to move the drive belt away, amid at the 7 o'clock position just beside the alternator afresh alleviation the high acclimation bolt on the alternator bracket. Accelerate the alternator inward. Lift the drive belt off the pulleys.

Remove the crankshaft caster bolts and accelerate the crankshaft caster off. Abolish the baptize pump caster application a socket. Abolish the timing belt covers application the appropriate-sized socket. Temporarily reinstall the crankshaft pulley. About-face the crankshaft clockwise until the timing marks are aligned. The lower timing mark is on the beyond sprocket just aloft and to the appropriate (when searching down at the engine) of the crankshaft sprocket. The dot on the sprocket have to band up with the mark on the block at the 9 o'clock position. The camshaft timing mark is a dot on the camshaft sprocket and curve up with the mark on the arch at the 12 o'clock position on the sprocket.

You still charge to move abroad the crankshaft pulley. Alleviate the timing belt tensioner nut afresh about-face the tensioner counterclockwise, absolution astriction on the timing belt. Lift the timing belt off of the sprockets.

Check the timing mark on the camshaft sprocket and accomplish abiding it is still at the 12 o'clock position. Install the timing belt, starting at the crankshaft caster and the average sprocket (the ample sprocket to the high appropriate of the crankshaft pulley). Check both timing marks to ensure they are still aligned.

Reinstall the crankshaft pulley. Route the timing belt over the top of the camshaft sprocket afresh down abaft the tensioner, befitting the belt bound on the non-tensioned side. Application the appropriate tool, alpha axis the tensioner clockwise. At the aforementioned time, put your duke on the timing belt about one-third of the way aloft the alternate pulley. Not until the timing belt alone can be askance through 90 degrees could you stop axis the tensioner. You are searching at the belt's vertical edge. Application your deride and forefinger, aberration the belt appear the accumbent position. If it goes added than 90 degrees, accumulate abbreviating the tensioner. If it goes beneath than 90 degrees, alleviate the tensioner until the belt twists 90 degrees.

Tighten the tensioner bolt to 33 foot-pounds of torque. About-face the crankshaft counterclockwise two turns. Check the timing marks. They should be lined up. If not, abolish the belt and reinstall. Check the timing belt astriction afresh as discussed in Step 5. If the astriction is incorrect, echo Steps 5 and 6. Abolish the crankshaft pulley.

Install the timing belt covers. Tighten the bolts to 7 foot-pounds of torque. Install the crankshaft pulley. Tighten the bolts to 15 foot-pounds of torque. Reinstall the blow of the locations in about-face acclimation of removal. You would bigger put 15 foot-pounds to torque the baptize pump caster bolts if you get PK Belt to the baptize pump pulley.

V-ribbed belts are not recommended for clutching drives

The V-ribbed concept combines some of the best features of flat belts and V Belt Supply. It employs what is essentially a flat belt with a series of V-shaped ribs running the length of the belt on the driving surface. These thin belts operate efficiently and can run at high speed. But even more important, tensile cords have total support because the belt ribs bottom completely on the sheave; there is no wedging action. The total support of the cord permits high load-carrying capacity. Theoretically, this design could provide the highest capacity of any belt if reinforced with high-strength fiber. To date, however, there has been no commercial demand for such exceptional power capacity in this type of belt.

The sacrifice of wedging action in V-ribbed belts increases tensioning requirements, but not to the levels required by flat belts. Supposedly, friction is independent of area of contact. Nevertheless, the V-ribbed shape increases friction between belt and sheave considerably beyond that of flat belts. Consequently, tensioning requirements are only about 20% above those of V-belts. In addition, the ribs ensure that belts track properly, making alignment less critical than it is for flat belts. Flat-belt alignment requirements are more critical than those of V-belts.

Major applications of the V-ribbed belts are in mass-produced consumer goods such as snow blowers, home power tools, and clothes dryers. It is also on accessory drives in automobiles. Operating efficiency of the V-ribbed belts rivals that of flat belts and synchronous belts. It also is able to operate over small pulleys. Because it is available in small width increments of one-rib width, belts can be matched almost precisely to the power requirements of specific drives. V-ribbed belts are not recommended for clutching drives.

The belt performs well with reverse-bend idlers, and most applications involve high-speed ratios with a reverse-bend idler used for take-up and to increase the arc of wrap on the smaller pulley.

Five standard configurations are available, with designations of H, J, K, L, and M. L and M were the first to be introduced and are intended primarily for industrial and agricultural drives. The M section is capable of transmitting up to 1,000 hp. J (originally called JR) is normally applied to fractional-horsepower drives in home appliances, snow blowers, and power tools. H is intended for miniature drives and K for automotive accessory drives.

The V-ribbed section, because it is available in extremely high-power ratings, eliminates matched-set belts required in multiple V-belt drives. The power density also permits compact drive configurations.

The most effective use of V-ribbed belts normally requires testing the drive system. Some tooling investment may be necessary for pulleys. The user also may find it prudent to draw upon the belt manufacturer for technical help and design refinement. Therefore, the V Ribbed Belt concept is almost always applied to mass-produced drives.